Sprinkler Repair in Palm Bay, FL

A zone is a group of heads that run together from one valve. When a single zone stays off while the others work, the cause is usually the valve, its solenoid or the wire that feeds it. The solenoid is the small electric coil on top of the valve that opens it. We test the controller output, the wire and the valve itself so we replace only what failed.

Turn the pump off first, because running dry can damage it quickly. Common causes are a pump that has lost its prime, an air leak on the suction side, a clogged screen or foot valve, or a closed valve downstream. We check each of these in order and tell you whether the pump itself is worth repairing.

If your sprinklers run on well water, the stains almost always come from iron dissolved in the water. University of Florida extension material notes that most Florida well water is high in iron, and it turns orange when it dries on concrete and stucco. We can re-aim heads to keep spray off hard surfaces and talk through treatment options for the well.

Palm Bay is in the St. Johns River Water Management District. Under its standard rules, homes with odd-numbered addresses (or no address) water on Wednesday and Saturday during daylight saving time and Saturday only during standard time. Even-numbered addresses water Thursday and Sunday, then Sunday only. Watering is not allowed between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and each zone can run for no more than one hour. The rules apply to wells too. Shortage orders can change them, so check the district's watering page for the current schedule.

Florida law requires owners of automatic irrigation systems to use technology that stops the system when there has been enough rain or moisture. A rain sensor is a small device, usually on the roof edge or a fence, that tells the controller to skip watering after rain. A soil moisture sensor can do the same job. We test the sensor on every visit.

Sandy soil drains fast, so any gap in coverage shows up within days. Most dry spots trace back to one head that is blocked, low or fitted with the wrong nozzle. Splitting a long run into two shorter cycles also helps water soak in instead of running past the roots.

A jump in the bill with no change in habits usually points to a leak, a valve that won't fully close, or a controller running extra programs. Look for soggy ground, a head that weeps after the system shuts off, or a zone running on the wrong day. We can check all three in one visit.

Don't run the system until it has been checked. Look for flooded or buried valve boxes, broken or snapped heads, and debris over the lawn. If the power surged, the controller may have lost its program or its display. A backflow device that took a hit from falling limbs should be inspected before you turn the water back on.

Most systems are worth repairing. Heads, valves, controllers and short pipe sections can all be replaced on their own. Replacement starts to make sense when the main lines are failing in many places or the layout no longer fits the yard, and even then we show you the evidence before suggesting it.

Yes. We design and install new systems, add zones to existing ones and convert beds to drip. We walk the property first, then give you a written price and a layout before any digging starts.